🧗 We're back for 2024! 🥳

Howdy. FlashPumped here. It’s time for dry January, eating greens and previously disbanded newsletters are making a comeback. Let’s just hope this particular New Year’s resolution lasts longer than the new recruits at your local climbing gym!

Here’s what we’ve got for y’all to kick off 2024 in style:

• The Best Climber of 2023 was

• Simon Lorenzi sends his third V17 

• Sean Bailey’s year-end accomplishments

• Perfect your crimping technique 

• When and where to use a gaston 

• Liquid vs. powdered chalk

So exciting!!!!

Jakob Schubert Named Best Climber of 2023

Jorge Diaz Rullo said it best in his Instagram post: 

“First person to climb 9c and 9A, but it’s more crazy when you do it in just A YEAR!! Don’t stop inspiring us, you are a big part of climbing history!”

Named “best climber of the year” by accomplished climbers like Daniel Woods and Jorge Diaz Rullo, and in Climbing Magazine, Jakob Schubert sent all of his big goals in 2023. 

So, what were they?

1. Sent Alphane (V17) boulder, among one of only five ascents.

2. Schubert won two World Championship titles and became one of the first athletes to secure a seat at the 2024 Paris Olympic Games. 

3. Completed a First Ascent of the world’s third 5.15d, Project B.I.G.

After 2023, Schubert is among the most accomplished climbers in the world, maybe in climbing history. 

What are your predictions about what Jakob Schubert will accomplish next?

Simon Lorenzi Sends His Third V17 

Simon Lorenzi made history last month by becoming the first-ever climber to tick three V17 boulders off his list. 

He made the third ascent of one of the most challenging boulders in the world, Burden of Dreams V17 (9A), on December 27, 2023. 

Burden of Dreams was not repeated until April this year, when Will Bosi made the second ascent. Bosi famously trained on a replica of the boulder. 

This boulder is unique because it may contain the most difficult series of movements on any established boulder problem in the world. It is awkward. It requires precise finger movements. The movements are far apart, and the final move is a three-finger crimp, forcing a seemingly impossible dynamic movement with nearly nonexistent footholds. 

Simon Lorenzi’s past accomplishments: 

• First Ascent of Soudain Seul (V17)

• Alphane (V17)

• Off the Wagon Low (V16)

• Big Conviction (V16)

• La Révolutionnaire Assis (V16)

• Won gold at the Boulder World Cup in 2022

Sean Bailey’s Year-End Accomplishments 

One of the United States' most well-rounded climbers, Sean Bailey, closed out 2023 by sending Lucid Dreaming (V15). 

Though Bailey is well known for his competitive climbing, 2023 was his year of repeating classic boulders in the American West and establishing a new line of his own. 

Sean Bailey’s 2023 Boulder Review:

• Flashed Slasher V13, Joe’s Valley

• Redpointed Black Lunch V13, Joe’s Valley

• First Ascent of The Doors of Perception V15, Little Cottonwood Canyon

• Second ascent of Transience V14, Little Cottonwood Canyon

• Buttermilker V13, Bishop

• Spectre V13, Bishop

• The legendary Lucid Dreaming V15, Bishop

Lucid Dreaming is no doubt a legendary climb, but the V15 rating is critiqued by many as being a bit sandbagged. 

Bailey made reference to this in an Instagram post,

 “I thought this thing was hard. Significantly harder than any V15’s I’ve tried and I think in a good style for me. Regardless, psyched to put it down felt like my hardest boulder yet.”

STOP Avoiding Crimpy Climbs with These Tips

Some holds seem too small to move past, but an effective crimping technique can help you effortlessly glide over slabs and move through a crimpy crux. 

In our recent post on crimping technique, we’ll teach you how to do just that. 

A crimp is a type of climbing hold referring to a small edge, one finger pad, or smaller. Crimping is the action performed when gripping a hold, usually small crimps.

Crimp is an umbrella term including several variations: 

• Open-hand or half-crimp 

• Closed crimp

• Full crimp

Crimping is a learned skill; like many climbing techniques, it takes time to master. So, how do you train crimps?

First, STOP avoiding crimpy climbs. You can’t improve if you don’t hop on crimps from time to time. 

To improve your base strength, move through training plateaus, and reduce the risk of injury, fingerboard workouts can help.

Practice crimp variations, integrate other motions into your routine, and always warm up. Not warming up before a hard climb or training session can result in a flash pump or, worse, an injury. 

Avoid injuries related to crimping by: 

• Using chalk to enhance grip 

• Giving your body time to adapt to crimping

• Rest and let those hands recover

• Avoid repetitive crimp climbing and projecting 

Looking to master your crimping technique or simply want to stop avoiding crimps on climbs? See our full overview below…

Mastering the Side Pull’s Evil Cousin: The Gaston

A gaston is a movement that involves pulling outward with both hands, creating opposing pressure on two near-vertical planes, such as the two walls of a crack (picture pulling elevator doors open). 

A gaston is most traditionally used in crack climbing but can be employed on any two holds facing inward toward each other. 

While not a typical move, it can be effective when a crack is too large for hand jamming and too small for an offwidth. You’ll also see gaston movements on indoor bouldering routes. 

The best way to think about the gaston technique is as the inverse of a side pull. In a side pull, the face of the hold is away from you, and you're pulling in toward yourself. 

A gaston is also oriented for sideways force, but instead of pulling, push out, use counterpressure to hold your body weight into the wall.

Improve gaston technique by: 

• Understanding the movement 

• Developing core strength 

• Increasing shoulder and arm strength 

• Improving flexibility 

• Working on footwork 

• Practicing in a gym setting 

While a gaston is not the most commonly used movement in climbing, having the knowledge and ability to perform a gaston can help you easily move through more complex problems and traverse boulders. 

Get a full overview of mastering a gaston here.

Tired of Spilling Loose Chalk? Try the Less Messy and More Hygenic Liquid Alternative 

We’re well aware that chalk can enhance our climbing experience. Chalk keeps our hands dry and improves our grip while climbing. 

Chalk is used in various sports, including climbing, gymnastics, and weight lifting. It can come in chalk blocks, balls, powdered chalk, and liquid chalk. 

No matter the type of chalk, the base is magnesium carbonate. The big difference between powder and liquid chalk is that liquid chalk has an alcohol base that evaporates as you rub it into your skin. 

Pros of Liquid Chalk

• Less mess

• More hygienic 

• Lower environmental impact

• Better for your health 

Cons of Liquid Chalk

• Harder to chalk up 

• Resin can damage climbs

• Performance is up for debate 

Liquid chalk seems more popular in a gym setting, and that’s one of the best places to test it out to see if you like it more than powdered chalk. 

Brands we recommend: 

• Friction Labs Secret Stuff

• Pure Liquid Chalk from Evolv

Both are resin-free and safe to use both indoors and outdoors. 

Liquid chalk and dry chalk have their places, which will help you stay on the wall! If you haven’t tried liquid chalk but are interested in whether it is the right climbing companion, see our full overview of liquid vs. powdered chalk.

Bacon & Waffles

Warm ups 🤣 

That's it for today. See y’all next week!