🧗 Destination Guide: Yosemite

Howdy. FlashPumped here. It’s that best part of the weekend where I get to share what climbing goodies we’ve rustled up this week 🎁

Here’s what we’ve got going:

• Destination Yosemite

• Learn to Dyno like a Pro

• Unparallel Up Mocc Review

• Daniel Woods Get a Big Break on Freakshow

• Paige Claassen does a Classic V12

• Sean Bailey’s possible V16 First Ascent

Let’s dig in.

A Yosemite Climbing Trip is Just Around the Corner

We’ve all seen Valley Uprising, the Dawn Wall, and, of course, Free Solo. If those movies don’t build your stoke for Yosemite Valley climbing, nothing will. 

Yosemite’s El Capitan big wall is the holy grail of not only North American big wall climbing but in the world. Even if you’re not a big wall climber, you want to be in the valley watching others scale above (don't forget your binoculars). 

If you’ve always dreamed of spending a climbing season or even just a holiday checking out Yosemite Valley, we have all the insider beta you need to plan an unforgettable climbing trip. 

Check out our newest travel guide so we can help you plan the trip of a lifetime to Yosemite Valley.

Dyno to the Top! Don’t Stop!

We’re talking dynos in our newest technique column. Think of the Rainbow Rocket boulder, a one-move V11 whose singular dyno move has made it famous. 

A dyno is a dynamic climbing movement that requires the climber to release both hands and jump to the next hold. 

Maybe you’ve seen a dyno before but haven’t considered trying one. Yes, a dyno is an exceptionally dynamic climbing movement, but when done correctly, it can be effective and fun. 

Dynos are common in bouldering, especially competition-style bouldering. Like most climbing movements, knowing the technique behind a dyno is the best way to master it as a skill. 

Understanding the application of a dyno and how to add it to a sequence safely is an important step, and you may want to have a spotter the first few sessions you try dynoing. 

Since you’re leaving the wall and jumping to another hold, dynoing can be dangerous and often leads to falls. Practice falling and be aware of the fall direction. If you’re practicing in the gym, this is much easier, but when dynoing outdoors, more precautions need to be put into place. 

Learn the ins and outs of how to safely do a dyno.

Are the Unparallel Up Mocc Your Next Climbing Shoe?

Inspired by the classic 5.10 Moccasyms, the Unparallel Up Mocc puts a spin on the classic slip-on climbing shoe. 

In our recent review of the Up Mocc, we weigh the pros and cons of the shoe and can help you decide if it is the right fit for your climbing experience. 

The Up Mocc is a highly versatile climbing shoe designed to fit a multi-disciplinary rock climber’s needs. Since the classic 5.10 Moccasym’s redesign, the climbing shoe market has been waiting for a slipper like this to fill the cracks. 

If you are a fan of slipper-style climbing shoes, you’ll appreciate the relaxed fit and low profile. They work well while slab climbing, crack climbing, and long rope routes with varying features. The tensioned heel and rubber design and distribution are great for added protection while jamming or for bouldering movements like toe hooking. 

A Hold Breaks on Freakshow, Bumping it up to a V15

Originally rated a V14, Freakshow recently saw a second ascent by Daniel Woods. 

The first ascent was completed by Drew Ruana in 2022, and if you see this problem, you’d agree it is indeed a bit of a freakshow boulder. 

Freakshow is massive! It involves around 40 feet of climbing from start to finish, starting under a roof and eventually leading to an off-vertical. While the top is 25 feet up, the landing below is a 45-foot drop. 

So, what happened? Why did Daniel Woods give it a V15 rating?

While projecting Freakshow, he broke an essential handhold on the vertical section, creating a new crux. 

In his recent Instagram post, Woods remarked how combining technical and powerful movements made Freakshow a “fun ride.” 

Daniel Woods is a well-known, accomplished boulderer who has completed the following:

• FA of Return of the Sleepwalker, V17

• Repeats of Hypnotized Minds, V16

• The Process, V16

• Off the Wagon Sit, V16

• Grand Illusion, V16

• He’s also climbed La Capella 5.15b and several 5.15a’s

Paige Claassen Adds to Her Impressive List of Completed Boulders

Paige Claassen recently repeated what is known as the world’s first V12 boulder problem. 

Trice, a V12 boulder in Colorado, was first established by Jim Holloway in 1975 and is considered the first V12 in the world. 

It sat unrepeated for 30 years after Holloway's first ascent until Carlo Traversi climbed it in 2007. Since then, a long list of climbers have added it to their completed climbs. 

paigeclaassen

View more on Instagram

In her Instagram post about the Trice boulder, Claassen remarked that she’s provided extra motivation when a climb has a cool history. 

While Claassen may be better known for her sport climbing, she’s also climbed Rocklands’ Legacy, V14, along with other notable climbs:

• Dreamcatcher, 5.14d

• Kryptonite, 5.14d

• Shadowboxing, 5.14d

• Algorithm, 5.14d

Sean Bailey Sends Long-Standing Boulder Project

Sean Bailey made the first ascent of Devilution and suggested a rating of a V15 or maybe V16. 

Devilution is a boulder problem on the infamous Grandpa Peabody Boulder in the Buttermilks (California). 

Bailey has been ticking some major problems off his list in a rapid-fire style for the last few months, including another potential V16, Lucid Dreaming (currently rated V15). 

Since November, Bailey has climbed: 

• Devolution, V16

• The Mandala Sit, V14

• Spectre, V13

• Lucid Dreaming, V15

• Buttermilker, V13

• Transcience, V14

• The Doors of Perception, V15

• Black Lung, V13

• Slasher, V13

Devilution is on a well-known boulder with a relatively obvious line, making it surprising that a first ascent took this long to happen. Bailey remarked in his Instagram post about the FA that this is the hardest boulder he’s put down to date despite it being a style he enjoyed.

Bacon & Waffles

🤣 🤣

That's it for today. See y’all next week!