🧗 Learn To Get Stronger with Board Training

Howdy. FlashPumped here. We’re like that long sip of fresh mountain dew on a summer day: soooo refeshing!

Here’s what we got going on today:

• Watch Emily Harrington Send Alien vs. Predator 5.14a

• Nina Williams Adds Another V12 to Her List

• Aidan Robert’s Right Hand Man

• The Secret to Strength and Power Training this Winter

• La Sportiva Skwama Booties

• Prevent Climbing-Related Foot Injuries

Here we go!

Emily Harrington Climbs Her Hardest Sport Route Since Becoming a Mom

After seven days of projecting, Emily Harrington sent Alien vs. Predator 5.14a (8b+) in La Madres, Nevada, earlier this year.

Alien vs. Predator saw a flash first ascent by Jonathan Siegrist, which Alex Honnold repeated on the same day. 

After her successful send, Harrington wrote a heartfelt Instagram post reminiscing on how becoming a mom influenced her climbing: 

“It took a solid 2 years to get back to this place in my climbing. Pregnancy, birth, breastfeeding, and all the beautiful transformations [Adrian Ballinger] and I went through changed my body and brain in ways I couldn’t fathom. ‘Back’ is probably the wrong word, because it suggests I was somewhere less worthy than before we had Aaro in our lives. The truth is climbing fulfills me more than it ever has. It’s both personal and a family affair, it’s harder and easier to focus because time is that much more precious.”

Harrington climbed her last 5.14 in October 2021 with the repeat of Stockboy’s Revenge 5.14b in Rifle. 

Nina Williams Repeats Meadowlark Lemon Stand V12 in Red Rocks

Nina Williams recently added another V12 to her roster of hard boulders with her repeat of the Red Rock V12 Meadowlark Lemon Stand. 

The problem only took Williams two sessions to top out, and she posted her repeat on social: 

Meadowlark Lemon Stand V12 is a classic Red Rock boulder that has seen many repeats since Paul Robinson established it. 

Williams mentioned in her Instagram post that this line suited her climbing style, so it went down quickly. Now, she’s moving on to other projects that may not fit her style as well but pose a good challenge. 

Other climbs by Nina: 

• Florida Man V12

• China Beach 5.14b in Rumney

• The Shining V13 in Rock Mountain National Park

• The Automater V13 in Rocky Mountain National Park

• First Female Ascent of Ambrosia V11 in the Buttermilks

• Ray of Light V13 Rocklands, South Africa 

Aidan Robert’s 8C First Ascent 

For those unfamiliar with the humble British climber, Aidan Roberts is a competition climber turned boulderer based out of the UK’s Lake District. In recent years he’s been establishing and repeating some of the hardest boulders in the world.

One of his more recent on-and-off projects was Right Hand Man 8C. He put up this first ascent last August but only recently announced it on Instagram.

Aidan mentions in his post about this project that while spending the summer at home, he’d often find himself wandering back to Bowderstone, although it wasn’t his primary project of the year as he was concentrating on more difficult things.

Projecting with friends when he had the time, adding in a bit of persistence, he completed the first ascent of Right Hand Man. 

His new route is a line next to one of his first ascents, Silent Singer 8C.

Never Get Bored Training on Boards

Winter is the perfect time to zero in on boosting strength and power for the climbing season ahead. 

While gym training offers quite a lot in terms of endurance and training, you may have a chance to reach your goals faster by training with tools like tension boards, system boards, kilter boards, and spray walls. 

Tension Boards: Tension is a board brand, but it is a term that is used widely by climbers when talking about a MoonBoard or Kilter Board. Generally, a Tension Board refers to Tension’s 8’ by 12’ symmetrically-set training board. Some are installed at fixed angles, while others are adjustable. Tension makes their boards with wooden holds, which makes them unique.

System Boards: These are non-brand-specific training boards developed to improve finger strength and power. System boards feature symmetrically set holds, like a fingerboard, to allow the climber to perform the same movements on both sides of their body. 

Some gyms provide access to these training tools, but our recent strength and power training article also offers guidance on workouts to help boost performance, including Kilter boards and Spray walls. So, even if you don’t have access to all the tools mentioned, we’re here to help you reach your training goals.

La Sportiva’s Skwama Shoe Excels on Steep Terrain

For those researching new shoes, the La Sportiva Skwama is a performance shoe designed for steep, overhanging terrain. 

La Sportiva is known for its P3 System: Permanent Power Platform. 

The P3 system prevents stretch and helps the shoe maintain structural integrity for longer. This, combined with the innovative S-heel, provides the climber with a secure and stable shoe suitable for overhanging features like heel hooks. 

The slipper design is simple, with a hook and loop velcro closure system. The split-sole construction offers a sticky rubber outsole and toe patch perfect for toe hooking and jamming. 

These performance features combine to create a soft and sensitive climbing shoe any sport climber or boulderer can enjoy. 

See our full, detailed review of the La Sportiva Skwama shoe below.

Don’t Let Climbing Ruin Your Feet

There is always an inherent risk with climbing, and although foot injuries are not the first to come to mind, they’re definitely one of them. 

Many climbers may experience a foot injury because of overuse or improper use of their shoes, so we put together a guide on avoiding these common problems. 

Most of these issues can be avoided and prevented with the correct information and practices. In our recent article, we not only overview how these injuries can be caused but also provide ways to avoid them altogether. 

Bacon & Waffles

🤣 🤣

That's it for today. See y’all next week!