🧗 Action in the Verdon

Howdy. FlashPumped here. We’re the climbing newsletter that’s like finding a £5 note on the floor. It’s gona be a gooood day.

Here’s what we got for you today:

• Action in a classic French crag

• Love is in the air

• Margo takes a trip down memory lane

• Jorge Diaz-Rollo is back (again)

Plus, you can now vote on what you thought of each newsletter! 👇🏻🥳

So let’s get going.

Action in the Verdon

There are some crags that absolutely blow your mind. Not just the first time you go there but every time.

The Verdon Gorge in the south of France is one of those places.

Not because the approaches are longer than Ceuse. Not because you have to abseil down to each route. Not because the bolts are all super run-out.

But because it’s absolutely breathtaking 😍 ⛰

And The Ramirole sector is the new kid on the block. Massive overhangs, tufas and mega-single pitches. What more could you want. This is the place for the elite. 

Jakob Schubert, one of the big guns, recently went to check-out DNA, the second 9c in the world and give it the old blast 🚀 

As a reminder, Jakob’s no stranger to the mid-9’s. He’s also ticked:

• Perfecto Mundo, 9b+

• Stoking the Fire, 9b

• Fight or flight, 9b

• Neanderthal, 9b

The route was bolted by Mr South-of-France, Seb Bouin, aka the Undercover Crusher, back in 2019. With over 250 attempts on the project he finally sent it last year 💪 💪 💪 

From his visit Jakob brought back some awesome footage. Check it out if you haven’t seen it yet.

It’s awesome to see more of the elite working this King Line 👑

Love is in the Air

Rock climbing has a new bromance 💞

First we had Mr Bosi working Excalibur, 9b+, with Stefano in Arco. Now we have Stefano working Will’s plastic replica of Burden of Dreams in the UK.

What’s next, candelit dinner at Aegean Tavern? 🕯🍷

The replica was made by scanning the actual boulder problem and then 3D printing the holds. These are then set up as accurately as possible on a board with an angle as close as possible to the real thing.

Quite impressive 🕵🏻‍♂️

Producing a replica with such high accuracy raises the question:

After working the problem with Ghisolfi, Will jett-setted off to Finland to live-stream his flash attempt. Results? Not a flash. But some fun footage…

With so many of the best climbers in the world tackling the beast, it shouldn’t be long till we see a repeat! 🤞

Maggie Takes a Trip down Memory-lane

Margo Hayes, the first woman to send 9a+ and featured in Reel Rock 12, has been back home, climbing in her local crag of Rifle, Colorado.

As a quick reminder she was the first woman to send:

• La Rambla, 9a+

• Biographie, 9a+

and then Papichulo in 2019.

The trip was part of Petzl’s latest Home Crag miniseries. The episode showcases some of Colorado’s legendary sport climbing areas and reminds us of our Home Crag’s role in the community.

A destination to add to the bucket list! 😍

Jorge is Back (Again)

Welcome back to the Jorge Diaz-Rollo Show.

This guy has been everywhere these past few weeks, sending one of the hardest climbs in the world and onsighting some serious stuff. Pretty much just cruisin’ around and crushin’ it 😎 💪

And this week, still in Margalef, he’s ticked off Alex Mego’s The Full Journey, 9b 👏

The route was originally bolted by Brit Tom Bolger who’s living the dream in Spain. He sent the first half in 2022, calling it The Journey.

With the extension on top, it’s 35m of pure overhanging pleasure. The first part, The Journey, 9a/+ and then the second half which is of similar difficulty.

Can I get an Amen for Jorge 🙏

(Check out Alex’s first ascent)

From The MotherShip

Warming-up correctly should be the starting point of any training session.

Your main routine should cover:

• Increasing your body temperature

• Dynamic stretching

• Easy climbing

Learn more and make sure you’re preparing your body both physically and mentally with our guide to warming-up.

And Beyond…

• Climbing history is made up of some of the most badass people you can image. In the 70’s John Bachar waltzed into the Yosemite scene and instantly blew peoples socks off. We need more guys like him!

• The Scottish secret to climbing harder? Well according to Davey-Dave Macleod, and following in the footsteps of Supersize Me, it’s eating only McDonalds for two months 🤢 Hopefully he’ll let us know if he survives 🤞

Bacon & Waffles

🤣 🤣

That's it for today. See y’all next week!

DIRTBAG DAYS